Hiking in Zhejian

11 November

So last month, I just had to get out of the city. I found a quick fix through the group Yejo. I pay them 700 kuai, which is just over 100 USD, and they provide all the transport, food, and entertainment sans beer of course for a two night and two day trip out into the hills south of Shanghai. Before I go further, I have one question: Would you drink this???

Sunny Beijing

16 October

One of the Olympic mascots

So last week I lived through my first Typhoon. Now I have lived through hurricanes, tornadoes, hail storms, ice storms, etc .. but never a typhoon, so I turn to my good friend Google and ask "What is a typhoon?"

Terracotta Warriors

14 September

This has been a hard post to write. Hard to find the words, and hard to post. I have rewritten this thrice, and almost posted twice.  For those of you imaging that I have been out exploring Shanghai history by day and sky rise bars by night, well I must disappoint you. I have spent the past week trying to download a semesters worth of accounting fundamentals into my brain (still working on it too!). But you are not here to listen to me whine.

This cannot compare to Cafe au Lait and Pain au chocolat.

I successfully avoided my good friend Murphy going down the mountain, and arrived at the train station a whole hour ahead of schedule. Now I was the twentieth person to by a ticket, after the ticket office opened late, but I did hop the first bus down from the cable way to the tourist center. Something that saved me a bit of time was that the bus stopped on the main road to allow people to board a bus back to Xi'an. This allowed me the opportunity to catch a cab to the station nearly thirty minutes ahead of schedule. My reward for duping Murphy was a steaming up of Nescafe and a bag of Chinese Swiss Rolls, but my good luck would not last.

Overnighting on Huashan

31 August

4pm saw me ambling about on Central Peak. Central Peak sits below East, South, and West Peak, but over North Peak; however, because of the placement of trees one cannot see North Peak from Central Peak. I shared some pictures last time of Central Peak, and there was nothing of particular note to see on this peak, but I played with my camera a bit here. I'll leave those for a bit later, and move on with the tale a bit.

My room at East Peak

Rather than retrace my steps I carried on the path that had brought me to Central Peak, and wound up making my way back up to East Peak. "Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,/ And sorry I could not travel both/ And be one traveler, long I stood/ And looked down one as far as I could/ To where it bent in the undergrowth;..." is what went through my mind when I reached the fork in the road.

Hello from Huashan

30 August

My hiking glove waving hello from the top of East Peak.

Huashan. Well I am glad I did it, but I doubt I would ever be willing to do it again. Though they may never read this, thank you to every person who patently waited for me to stumble out a Chinese sentence, or who rephrased my bungled Chinese so that an attendant could understand me, or who took a photo of me to share here with you,  or who smiled at me and thanked me for visiting Huashan; my adventure would not have been a pleasurable without you. Huashan has been turned into a sadistic type of amusement park, no rides just punishing amounts of exercise and some perilous attractions. Like all amusement park, everything past the main entrance gets a 5x increase in price and if jammed with people. In America, you expect long lines and screaming children. On Huashan, you find the same, but with an added element of deathly peril because falling here might not just mean a scrapped knee.

Xi'an Bound

26 August

Well I did it! I made the solo weekend trip out to Xi'an to see Huashan and the Terracotta Warriors. The worst trick Murphy played on me was hiding my cheat sheet. All I had to rely for bus numbers and general information was my memory, and my Chinese; it was truly an adventure. I kept a daily journal directed towards my parents which is how I will be posting this trip, and with my Papa's pack, they never truly felt that far away. My trip it isn't over yet. Right now I am on a lay over in Beijing, waiting at LTL for my overnight train to Shanghai ... and I haven't showered in four days!

Papa's trusty pack making the trip with me.

 Friday, 23 August, it was a stressful morning. I have moved all of my belongings to LTL, and all I carry with me is some food, a camera, my boots, a change of clothes in case it rains, seven bottles of water, and a few essentials. It is a disquieting feeling looking at an empty room, only a few items on your back, and no intention of return. The end of one chapter, and the beginning of another. To add to my nervousness about the solo trip and lack of home is my visa. The visa agency is to deliver it to me today with my passport so I can board my train, but without it in hand my stomach is in knots.

Following the Wall From Hebei to Beijing

23 August

Last weekend I went out with the Beijing Hikers on yet another Great Wall hike. I assure you that it doesn't get old. As I explained two posts ago, is so much of the Great Wall to see, and around Beijing the landscape changes greatly. At Jiankou and Mutianyu the wall is wrapped in mists and the lanscape gives it a dramatic backdrop. Gubeikou and Jinshanling host a wall that clings to the spine of rolling hills before sweeping away in the distance on the back of the dragon. Both of them, vastly different, were both walls. Strong, towering and yes crumbling in places, but still a wall. The hike in Yangqing Country of Hebei Province follows a mounded pile of rocks, packed earth, and loose stones masquerading as a wall.

Now that is a great wall ....

Badaling in a Flash

19 August

You can just make out the steam of people marching up that rise.

By a stroke of luck, the route out to my hike this weekend went right past Badaling. When I realized this, I thought to myself – it would be great if I could get some shots to show what I was talking about on the blog. Now I could only shoot out of my bus window, therefore; no one judge me on the quality of these photos please!

Gubeikou to Jinshanling

10 August

Well friends, I finally managed to get to the Great Wall while the sun was shining! Murphy – damn him – just had to come along though, so in addition to my sunshine and cloudless skies on my 10 Kilometer hike was a constant 35 degrees Celsius temperature on a windless day. What? You don’t know what 35 degrees Celsius is in Fahrenheit? Did your Papa not give you a Boeing Approved fridge magnet the size of a mouse pad that has every conversion ratio including jet fuel on it? No. Well your confusion is understandable then, and I am happy to tell you 35 degrees Celsius is roughly 95 degrees Fahrenheit.  (Love you Papa)

Standard, I was here photo

It occurred to me before I started writing this post that I keep mentioning I go to this piece of the Great Wall, but before I actually started going my understanding was that the Great Wall all looked the same (think Mulan, and blame Disney) and stretched in a straight line across the northern part of China. Absolutely, none of that is true, so inspired by the local expat magazine The Beijinger, I have complied a brief introduction to the Great Wall for you.

Immortal Valley Hike

4 August
Yesterday, I went on another hike with the Beijing Hikers. This hike has been named the Immortal Valley Loop, but the literal English translation is something along the lines of "Valley of Peaches and Fairies." Unfortunately for us there was a large traffic going out of Beijing and our 10am start turned into a 12pm start. Lucky for us, we had shade for a good portion of this hike. The start of the hike takes you though a series of shade dappled valleys with nice large, cool pools. Some have running water, and some had waterfalls; each one was pretty in its own way. Nothing could be done about the sheer heat of the day, but the company good and the scenery breath-taking. We reached summit in about two hours flat where we broke for lunch. At the summit is a bare stretch of rock where you are able to get an amazing 360 degree view, and on our clear fine day, you could see for miles.

Always Bring Two Dry Pairs of Socks

July 30

When I was little my Papa always asked me, “Do you have a dry pair of socks?” Most parents reserve this question to trips to the lake, an amusement park with water rides, or trips downtown where one finds temptingly cool water features. Not my Papa, he asked before we went to my brother’s baseball games, or the playground, and probably even the grocery store. I blame this entirely on the Marine Corps (Oorah!), and learned to just keep multiple sets of clothes, not just socks, in a car. The point dear reader is that this past Saturday I went hiking up to the Great Wall, bringing with me a dry pair of socks and clothes. It was not raining when I left, and though the weather called for precipitation, I figured I was either going to be sweaty or soaked. Well it did start misting about twenty minutes into the four or five hours hike (Yippee!), and I was the only one with a fully dry kit to change into – except I neglected shoes! So there I am, nice and dry with the option of putting my dry socks into my wet boots or my bare, pruney feet into those wet boots. I am grieved to report that I only brought ONE pair of dry socks, so in went my poor, abused feet. Sorry, Papa, I tried! Do I still get a cookie, or maybe some petit fours from that bakery in Ferguson?

View from the Top

28 July

I wanted to share with you this nifty sunset picture from my window. My new room in Beijing is on the 26^th floor, and my windows face Northwest. The sky was a clear blue all day, and the temperature reached 100 degrees Fahrenheit!

Currently, there is a massive thunderstorm going on outside. When it rains here, sometimes it seems like a damn burst in the heavens because it is usually a sudden occurrence, and very heavy. For example, today I left class at about 8:10pm and thought, “It will rain tonight.” By the time I travel 4 metro stops with one change over, it is pouring so hard that many people are just waiting for a break inside the metro station. I charge on out because where I come from rain is a good thing!

Gold Star to those who catch the reference!

I am still undecided whether my Birks are cleaner or dirtier than when I started this trip home. All of the street crossings, and many parts of the sidewalks were flooded. And I don’t mean puddles that you can elegantly jump over, but ankle high lakes spanning the breath of the pavement!

Oh well, moments like these sunset pictures balance it all out in the end.

 

For those of you who didn’t get the reference, YouTube “Luke Bryan Rain is a Good Thing” and Enjoy!

Blonde in Beijing

July 26

As you know I got back to Beijing today and besides those trivial things like paying my school tuition and starting my visa extension process at the top of my list was getting my hair done. What may seem like a simple process is definitely an experience here in Beijing. The Chinese version of blonde is this brassy metallic color which looks cool on them, but would definitely turn my hair orange! Always remember Google is your friend. So I found a salon before I went to Chengde that had several reviews indication that 1) had fluent English speaking management and 2) had colorists that could turn that brassy, orange, nastiness back into blonde. I went to scope the place out, and speak with a manager just to see how things worked and what not. The manager on the floor, David, was very polite, and friendly. He gave me his business card so that I could set up an appointment when I knew for sure when I would be back in Beijing. 

In America, my mother and I have the same stylist, Carol – who has been treating my mother’s hair since she was in college, and let’s just say that on August 6 someone is turning 63. We frequently schedule dual appointments and block Carol out for two maybe three hours since we both get cuts and colors. Now Carol does us simultaneously with my mother getting color first since she just has a base, and I have a base with highlights. She also manages to do this with her own two hands. The same process here in Beijing utilized a colorist, a stylist, and two assistants with the managers checking in from time to time. Even stranger to me is that the colorist did my base, set it, shampooed the color out; and then repeated the whole process with my highlights. Then I had to get my hair trimmed! By this point most people will start to wonder how much this wound up costing me: 1940 kuai, which for simple math at a 6:1 conversion is around $320 USD. My mother would know for certain, but that is more than what Carol charges for both of us. I guarantee my Papa is frowning, and thinking, “just dye it yourself.” Well Papa dearest, if you recall, I both cut and dyed my own hair when I lived in Germany, and got good enough to where I was mixing my own dye. The problem is that I have yet to find anywhere that sells it, and beggars cannot be choosers. I will have to wait till I get to Shanghai before trying again. Shanghai has a larger ex-pat population, and may have more student budget friendly options. If not, then Grandmother will get her wish, and I am dying back to natural brunette.

Now who can guess what I did next. I mean I just spent more money on my hair in three hours than I did the whole month that I lived in Chengde.

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Back in Beijing

26 July

My apologies for the delayed posting, but I did not want to subject anyone to an undignified rant. Before I summarize my time in Chengde I need to give another apology. This one to my aunt for waking her up at 5am because I took a friend’s word that Denver is 12 hours behind China, and I need not double check with Google. Therefore, instead of calling at 7am to wish my uncle a Very Happy 60^th Birthday – I called at 5am. All I can say is that at least I didn’t pull her out of bed by her ankles like my father used to do!

Living in Chengde is living in continual frustration. I had a great experience with some unfortunate occurrences that seem so much more dire than they really are when I was living through them because I lived on the thin line between “throwing in the towel” and “I can do it, I can do it.” The teacher I was assigned to in Chengde spoke less English than I did Chinese; which for anyone who has ever taken foreign language is horribly irksome. If I had a question on grammar or the specific meaning of a vocabulary word, the answer was in Chinese, and that really doesn’t help me since I don’t speak Chinese.

"Small Town" China

6 July

First, we have to give thanks to my host's boyfriend for my ability to get on the Internet and make posts. My host showed me the Ethernet cord where I could plug into the router, but I have never used Ethernet for this computer and when I plugged it in no install box came up.  Well damnation ... now what? I admit to being almost completely reliant on my computer prompting me to do things in order to get programs install or what not. So I looked at my host, and said something along the lines of "in America I use Wifi, I don't know how to use this." Later that night her boyfriend was over, and he very helpfully set it up for me. By this I mean he tested the internet on his computer first to make sure it was working, then we two, him speaking no English and me speaking no technical Chinese (and very little Chinese at that) are squatting in front of the tea table my computer is on trying to figure out the proper click sequence to get to the proper install box. This is one of those moments where you are in the middle before you know you began and are wondering how you wound up doing this in the first place. All I can say is thank you to Bill Gates for making the Windows Icons universal so that my host's none English speaking boyfriend can find the icon he knows will get him to what he wants and get me onto the internet!

I wave the Red, White, and Blue

4 July

To all my fellow Americans, HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY! (I always want to watch that movie on this day.) This marks my third 4th of July outside of the USA, not many to some; and yet more than others have experienced. Each one is a bit different from the last, and I hope this one will be just as memorable!

My first in Paris, I was staying that the "House of the United States," so there was beer, BBQ, fireworks, and beer pong (I blame that on the Texan contingent represented!). Once our supply of beer was gone, we went out and bought more on our way to the Eiffel Tower where we laid on the green and watched the it light up every hour on the hour after dark. The best part is the French will sometimes come up and wish you a Happy Independence or Freedom Day if they realize your a friendly American.

The second in Germany, I once again celebrated with a group of Americans; however, we roped quite a few Germans into our fun with promises of beer, meat, and smores. We could never run out of beer because we lived in a Student Commune, and there were three Getrinketverkauft (mini-marts that stocked heavily towards beer) within 1000 feet of our BBQing location. The highlight of course were the smores since most of us had been out of the States for a year or more, and marshmallows are just not something Europeans understand. We got our hands on about six bags of marshmallows, and then tapped into our brilliant American ingenuity and used butter cookies topped with chocolate rather than graham crackers and Hershey's. Perhaps better than the smores were our German friends reaction to them: something along the lines of "This is a hot sticky mess that doesn't taste like anything but chocolate and sugar!?! Why do you love it so much?" There isn't much of a response besides "It's American!" to explain or counter that observation ....

.... but that meant more smores for me!!!! Win-win in my opinion.

So my third in China, and not even a big city where you are guaranteed to find ex-pats, a small town in Northern China called Chengde that gets the occasional tourist, and us students who are dedicated to learning Chinese. Tonight, after six hours of one on one with my teacher (guh) and dinner with my host, I can celebrate. The options are limited since I wouldn't trust myself with American fireworks so Chinese are out of the question, and while there is BBQ it is mainly kebobs, no big slabs of cow, pig or chicken happily roasting over some coals ... I just made myself really hungry = (
The plan right now is for the three waiguorenmen (foreigners) consisting of myself, another American, and a Brit to celebrate by playing "foot birdie"in the park followed by ice cream.

A quick note on "foot birdie" and ice cream. The Chinese term is ti jianzi, but it follows the same rules as hakiesak, but you play with something resembling a big badminton birdie that is flat at the bottom, and weighted. Hence "foot birdie" seems like the most reasonable thing to call it though my dictionary tells me it means shuttlecock. Ice cream is our reward because this is actually much more difficult than we imagined, and last night we were only able to get eight hits in a row. However, ice cream here doesn't taste like it has dairy/milk in it. I think of it as the difference between my delicious cup of Starbucks dark roast with two shots of espresso vs. Nescafe .... something is just missing.... but refreshing and delicious all the same.

Hopefully, I will get some photos of this for the next post!

The Wild Great Wall

1 July

Over the past weekend a small group from LTL went to the Xiangshuihu section of the Great Wall. It is not an overly long stretch, and most of it has not be refurbished, making it a less traveled to site. We were definitely the only non-Chinese people there; however, the inn keeper and his family are used to foreigners since LTL makes the journey out there about once every four to five weeks.

The drive out takes about two and a half hours by private car. Our driver was fantastic, and undeniably knew where he was going which is the trick since the back roads are not well marked or mapped out. The inn was clean, and well kept with unbeatable view of the mountains shrouded in mist. The food was fabulous, all local and made to order. The fish was the specialty of the inn, and kept fresh in the backyard.

 

   

From net to plate in 30 minutes flat, great work team!

Hiking took up all of Saturday afternoon, and left us exhausted. After having our bellies filled, there wasn't that much more to do but trundle off to sleep. The section we saw Saturday had been restored, but was still a tough hike - up and down - with steps the height of your knees, and steps that went up so high they disappeared into the mist. Yes, the mist. The weather was not super fabulous for our hike with humidity hanging damp around us, and the clouds so low they obscured much of the views. I was able to get a few decent shots though.

 

Yes, the step is up to my knee

Reduced to crawling up the big steps

Un-restored Great Wall

Group Photo

Restored section from a distance

Watchtower

Buddha with a waterfall background

Not so restored, it kind of ends over that hump

The next morning we set out for another section of the Great Wall. As you can see, not in the best of conditions. Quite a bit like the second piece we saw the day before, but unlike that section there were no new steps to help you you. I did not try and scale the thing since the weather sucked and the soil was damp. I am not be a good hiker, but I do know when I value my life more than a picture opportunity ... well most of the time.

Crumbling watchtower

Definitely missing a few bricks

Finally back to the hotel, and just in time for the rain to start spitting out of the sky. A great trip all the way around. I got to exercise, act like a fool, catch a fish, and see a remote section of the Great Wall. Yes, the weather sucked, but if the sun had been out, I would probably resemble a lobster right about now.

Google Album:

https://plus.google.com/photos/108488715129842232914/albums/5895460998046608257?authkey=CMq8_MjN84TMVQ

Peking Duck

June 27

Every three weeks LTL hosts a community dinner, open to all students. The dinner switches between Beijing Hot Pot and Beijing Duck. In the three weeks, almost four, I lived in Beijing I have yet to try Beijing Duck. Everything in its own time I supposed, but to me it really seemed to be something that you enjoyed with a large group of people, not by yourself or with just one other. Not to say that you couldn't eat it that way, but  --- now I am rambling and you just want to know about the duck.

It was very good, definitely not something one should eat everyday since it was quite oily (that is saying something considering Chinese food). The restaurant we went to served it up very tender and juicy with a good portion of skin and meat. Andreas, the boss man, informs me that some restaurants will just give you the skin with a dash of meat. I say to each his own, but being the carnivorous type the experience might be worse than the salmon burgers my Papa once brought home. You want/expect meat and when it is not there, the food tastes worse than it should.

Back to the duck.

The duck is wheeled to you, and carved up in front of you onto a platter. After which they ask if you want duck soup, which is your duck put into a pot with spices and vegetables. We declined the soup.

That is the end of that duck.

 So once the duck is nicely sliced onto a platter, you don't just grab it an chow down. The duck is presented with something like tortillas made from tofu; duck sauce; and veggies. If it is to your liking, you wind up making Chinese Duck Tacos. It is accepted that some people don't like tofu, and thus; one can eat just duck, but the tacos are definitely worth a try.

The presentation of the duck, and Andreas showing us how to make duck tacos.




And of course no outing of 20 something year old students is complete without some cultural education. Cue the entrance of the Mongolian King, a brand of bajiu. Bajiu literally means clear alcohol, and is the Chinese traditional wine. It really doesn't taste like anything but pure alcohol. It doesn't have any underlying flavors that I could taste like whiskey does. Then again I don't know what grade of bajiu we got, and I am not chomping at the bit to find out. If you are curious and want to know more go to wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baijiu

I think the pictures say it all.

 

Andreas was really just showing off

For all those who doubt, yes I did take my shot of cultural immersion as well as photograph others doing it.